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Old 03-04-2017, 06:16 AM
LoneWolf LoneWolf is offline
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Default EO/IC valve lash

OK guys, been awhile so I researched/you tube. Not to sound like an idiot but want to do it right. Setting cold for now. Exhaust start to open set intake...no problem there but here is the issue, setting exhaust. Some say intake start to close or intake almost closed set exhaust? Makes a big difference in lash setting. So what do most folks do with intake closing. Thanks.
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Old 03-04-2017, 09:25 AM
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Johnny Jordan Johnny Jordan is offline
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Bill,
On the one you start with ... First set the clearance as the exh. just starts to close and then check it a little farther along as it closes.

You won't have to do all of them just the first one to find the loosest spot on the ramp.

That is the position you need to set the rest of them....

IAEO ... EAIC .... Or there abouts.


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Old 03-04-2017, 10:18 AM
BowtieBilly1121 BowtieBilly1121 is offline
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Like MrJohnny, I find that its best to let the exhaust valve open about a 3/8-1/2 way of the before setting intake and set exhaust when intake is very very close to being closed.With some of the aggressive cams the Cams Motion tech says its alright if it just barely slaps the intake valve close to set exhaust.

I will get my engine good and hot and set number 1 & 7 1st then set the rest on that side and warm engine back up and set 2 & 8 then the rest on that side. The next morning I will check the cold settings on 1 & 7 & 2 & 8 and if they are not the same I know I did not adjust them properly and will start all over again. But if both sides are the same as they should be if you set them carefully I set the rest of them at the same gap crank engine bring it up to temp and 1st 3 & 5 and they are what they are suppose to be Hot I check the other 2 if they are all correct I heat engine back up and then check 2 & 4 1st if they are correct I check to make sure other 2 or correct.

NOW THIS SEEMS LIKE A LOT OF TROUBLE BUT I NO LONGER HAVE TO CHECK OR SET MY VALVE CLEARANCE WITH ENGINE HOT!! I DO IT WHEN ITS COLD AND DO NOT HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT HOT PARTS AND MY SETTINGS ARE PERFECT.

I have been told by some good engine builders close is good enough you won't pick up but a few thousands by going to all that trouble. But if I pay all that money I want every thousands I can get out of my engine.
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Old 03-04-2017, 01:18 PM
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Johnny Jordan Johnny Jordan is offline
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I hope you guys do realize that the numbers on your Cam Card are suggestions only.

Under different circumstances I have set them as much as .008-.010 tighter and/or looser and it makes a difference.

If you tighten them up and your car runs faster it's a sign that your engine wants more duration. If looser is faster your engine wants a shorter duration cam. The few thousands difference in lift won't mean anything, not enough to matter anyway.

Ask your cam Guru about this if you don't believe me. Thx, JJ
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Old 03-05-2017, 10:39 AM
BowtieBilly1121 BowtieBilly1121 is offline
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If you find tighten or loosing your valves to help, you might can get a lot more power out of advancing or retarding your cam its certainly worth a try.Its not a bad idea when selecting a cam to fill out the form most cam shaft company's offer now days to help you get the right cam. The more information you can give them or your engine builder the closer they can come to making sure you get the best cam the 1st time.While you can't beat a Comp Cam shaft for a Chevy the cam of choice for a Mopar is Cams Motion. I have no idea about a ford!
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Old 03-05-2017, 12:14 PM
LoneWolf LoneWolf is offline
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Thanks guys for info. Heat in motor, temp: oil/water/alum head/rocker when checking lash hot. Thanks
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Old 03-07-2017, 04:29 PM
Hooker Hooker is offline
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.020cold = .025 hot aluminum heads iron block
.012cold = .025 hot aluminum heads aluminum block

That me!!!
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